The next stop on the rough bike trip map I had inherited from an Israeli couple the night before at the H’mong Sister Bar, was ‘Silver Waterfall’. The fall was about 1/2 hour ride from Sapa town, and lay at the start of what becomes the Tram Tom Mountain Pass. The large fall was visible from quite a distance, sunlight glistening on the silky stream running down the mountainside. As I approached the scene grew less and less beautiful and a collection of busses and motorcycle taxies lay gathered in the large car park accompanied by a flurry of tea selling women.
I slowed down to take in the view from the road, but as a lady waving a packet of tea power walked up to my bike, I throttled the death-trap of a scooter and left silver waterfall and its retail outlet in the smoke blowing out of the terminally ill Honda. My ad-hock map had run out of suggestions, and with a whole day and a full tank still left, I decided to motor on further and see what the top of the pass had in store. Just before the top, a pagoda on a hill top popped into view. The pagoda was a short walk in the National park that also included Mt Fanxipan trek, and a walk to the ‘Golden Stream Love Waterfall’. (yes I giggled as well)
I spent the better part of 2 hours wandering the short walks through the forest. As the track met up with the stream I followed it through to a small shelter where two Black H’mong men sat smoking a bamboo water pipe, looking over two French men swooping delicate long handled nets in large and fast arcs through the air, creating a pseudo ballet of sorts. The two men were Geneticists, catching the farthest flying of the Himalayan butterflies that find their way to Mt Fanxipan. Once caught the delicate creamy green and brown winged butterflies were pocketed in little white paper bags, to be taken away and studied for genetic research.
With a few track directions I made my way back up the creek, following my ears to the crashing sound of Love waterfall, launching hundreds and hundreds of litres over the 20ish m drop into a rocky pool below. After emerging from the jungle, I made my way up the stone staircase to the hill top pagoda. Battered with mountain wind, I stumbled the last few cobbled steps to find an old bronze bell swaying about within the structure. The view spread in both directions; back across the side of the mountain pass I had already motored up of sculpted rice terraces, out over the Fanxipan mountain ranges, and down the long bleak far side of the mountain pass winding its way down the uninhabited mountainside towards the next province. Over the far side mini busses and coaches were not to be seen, replaced with the occasional touring landcruiser or truck carrying roadbase up from the bottom of the pass.
My bike and I made our way 100 m up the road to the official highest piece of tarmac in Indochina, marked with a derelict shed and a collection of tarpaulin huts selling roadside food; bbq eggs or potatoes, and tea. Over a bottle of water I shared some words with the only other tourists I came across, on their way back to Sapa from the adjacent provence, and then carefully guided my bike down the unmarked roads of the farside of the pass only occasionally seeing a local riding a bike or hearing a warning blast of the horn from a passing truck.
As the road flattened, and the looks from workers on the verge grew stranger, I turned my bike around to ride the pass in reverse and return to Sapa. Near the top of the pass I stopped and enjoyed a cup of sweet tea from a local H’mong girl. Conversation was limited, so most of the time was spent listening to the wind blast her tent, and communicating my appreciation of the tea with a series of ‘mmm’s, ‘aah’s, and smiles.
As the sun found its way closer to the mountain tops I returned the bike, still with an almost full tank. Never fill the bike for a day trip – only put 2 dollars in it. I strolled into Sapa to get some dinner feeling satisfied (that with a bit of hit and miss) I had found my way off the matching hats, minibus, and guide with a flag tour group trail that on the one hand makes Sapa so available to visit, but on the other hand diminishes a bit of the sense of place that is so thick and rich.
Hi. I’m Ed.After recently finishing my Masters of Architecture and pausing on the edge of falling into the professional world at the age of 22, I decided that 4 weeks leave a year just wasn’t good enough, especially after giving up 5 years of weekends to work a part time job through university. It was time to gather all those weekends back.
I stayed at my part time job over the summer, almost dying of boredom as I tended to the CD and DVD section at Myer Launceston, that was dying in the shadow of the download industry. With one final tidy up of the CD’s I resigned from the job I held for 6 years and started cleaning up and selling bits of the rest of my life. For a month I cancelled gym memberships, moved out of share house, sold stuff on gumtree – and just generally parted ways with one part of my life.
A few days later I was laying 25 kg of stuff out on my parents kitchen table and deciding what I could shed from my pack to cut down on weight. My hairdryer was shoved into a cardboard box, and wasn’t going to see Asia with me.
With a vague plan, 5 nights booked in Saigon, and a Chinese visa pre organised I left Launceston for what I had budgeted as about 6 months of traveling in Asia. After that, the rest is fairly thoroughly documented in my blog.
Have a story to share ?
Spectacular landscape shots — and beautiful writing as well! Alas, I am “but” a full-time writer…can’t shoot a picture worth a darn. So I am entirely jealous of your skill!
Stunning pictures and beautiful writing, I was especially impressed with the wild pictures of water. So captivating. I have to say, my favorite part of the story is the butterfly collectors. They found a real gem! And so did you.
Thank you for sharing your photos and experiences! It is amazing to be able to learn so much through a blog. I appreciate the opportunity to travel along with you!
fantastic shots. i love vietnam, been living here for nearly 2 years now. u might enjoy my last posts on living in saigon not yet been to sapa, but its on my list for sure!
Beautiful photos! I was in Sapa in January of last year and unfortunately the mist was so think that we missed a lot of those “postcard shots.” We still had an amazing time trekking through the hills though – such a beautiful spot.